Reflections on Patriotism

"Mama! SOY PURO PINOLERO!!!" (Mom! I'm 100% Nicaraguan!) The cutest three year old I've ever seen, spent much of the bus ride the other day singing this popular folk song, in between drawing his mother's attention to the different geographic features we passed. "Mom! Look at the cows! Mom, look, a mountain!" It occurred to me later that this was probably the most beautiful expression of patriotism I've ever seen. A little boy seeing the amazing landscapes of his country, and connecting his identity to the land that gives so many life and well-being. For me, this is precisely the type of love of country that we need more of, especially back home. 

September 14 and 15th are the Independence Day celebrations in Central America. Everyone turns out for parades that seem to be rooted in militaristic nationalism* but which are nonetheless joyful expressions of patriotism, as drumlines beat a danceable rhythms and the color guard twirls sticks in creative and over the top costumes. Many young people dress up in traditional outfits, frilly folklore dresses with braids or buns for the girls while the boys don guayabera shirts and straw hats. This year, the band put a new spin on things with everyone sporting cowboy hats. 

As a small country with an identity that is very consolidated for the most part** Nicaragua has a very clear sense of itself, with traditional music, foods, clothing and family life. While there are many schisms along political and religious lines, they don't shake the core foundations of people's love of country too much. Nicaragua's national identity might not always be popular in the international arena or within the neoliberal economic order, but there's a palpable sense of consensus that "This is who we are, and we feel pride in it." When everyone stood to sing the national anthem at the assembly on the 15th, I almost cried, looking around and seeing the pride and seriousness etched on everyone's faces. The pride of a people who've intensely experienced the struggles and sacrifices to obtain their freedom, a freedom with narrow parameters, but a freedom nonetheless.

Here are some pictures from the celebrations: 

                                                                    Folklore dancing

                         El Gueguense, a traditional dance celebrating indigenous resistance

                                   A few of my students show off their beautiful folklore dresses

                                                         Little drummer boys

                                                                  The ballerinas

*Not an unreasonable thing to develop when the US invades or messes in your politics for most of the 19^th and 20^th centuries.

*Nicaraguan identity is problematic for many social groups, particularly the indigenous and creole groups of the Atlantic Coast, but also for those on the Pacific side who´ve been coopted in the mestizo consensus. Read the enlightening "To Die in this Way: Nicaraguan Indians and the Myth of Mestizaje" for more info.