So I've spent about a week in San Miguelito. Some Peace Corps Volunteers compare the Peace
Corps life cycle to a chick maturing into a rooster...I'm definitely in the
chick stage right now: kind of useless, but cute to laugh at, and in turn
feeling a bit overwhelmed sensorially by everything going on in this world I've
hatched into....Here are some things that have happened.
-My host family in Carazo took a road trip to drop me off in San Miguelito.
In true Nicaragua form, we crammed into a pickup truck, with plenty of chinearing
(sitting on laps). It was super delightful. I played DJ with my 7 year old
neighbor, we stopped to eat lunch near the shade of a brook, we drove past hot
dry lands, the mountains of Boaco and Chontales and down to the jungles of Rio
San Juan. And of course, we took the requisite photo shoot on the muelle
(wharf)in San Miguelito. After they left, I didn't know what to do, so I
organized my room and passed out at like 6pm.
-Rayos! It's supposed to be summer which means it's not supposed to
rain all the time, but it still does. Two crazy scary thunderstorms this week
so far.
-So since I am not teaching until the following semester, I don't really
have a ton of things to do right now other than get to know my counterpart
English teachers and institutos and the commuity more generally. After hiding in my room and having a lot of
sadness and pena (shyness) for the first few days, I realized that the
only person who really cares how awkward I am is me. So I am making an effort
to get over myself and actually talk to the neighbors and it is making my life
infinitely more fulfilling. People here are amazing conversationsationalists,
and incredibly open to talking about their lives, which is humbling. People's
lives here are marked by so much suffering: war, child mortality, the absence
of loved ones in Costa Rica or the United States for work, bad weather,
political faultines not working in their favor, strained family relations due
to machismo, alcoholism....but most people are still so positive. Its inspiring for sure.
-I've won some celebrity for two things: my host mom thinks my windup radio
and sporks are really cool. Also I got some chavalas (tweens) from the
neighborhood to think I'm cool by teaching them the fabulous art of friendship
bracelets. Thank you Klutz books! Now I have friends!
-I tried two Nicaraguan standard refrescos for the first time- chica,
bubble gum pink corn drink, and pinolillo, toasted corn with cacao &
sugar drink. I'm a fan.
-Buying food here is hard for this gringa. There is no super market in this
department. Which leaves pulperias, small stores stocked with random
things as the main option. Their name is derived from the word pulpo, or
octupus, according to one explanation because there are so many, it's as if
there were tentacles everywhere. Regardless of the origins of the name, you
often can't see what they sell and have to ask. This is problematic for me
because no one actually uses the Spanish name of the thing they want to buy, but
instead the brand name. If you ask for leche you will get a lot of
hesistation, but if you ask for CentroLac you will be rewarded with a bag o'
milk. It's extra bad when the name of the thing is in English, because I have
to figure out how they pronounce it. Corn flaake! The best was the other
night when my host mom asked me if I wanted maruchan for dinner.
"I've never heard of that! What traditional Nicaraguan food might this
be?" I pondered, until she clarified by saying it was a soup with noodles.
O! Ramen! Maruchan. Duh, I guess. People also sell things out of their houses
without signs advertising this, which lends every house a blackmarket sort of
quality from an outsider's perspective. So that's a whole different food buying
system to navigate.
-Fun tip from my neighbor who makes cheese: apparently milk is a hot
comodity around here. If you want it fresh from the cow, you'd better get there
before 6 am....otherwise, all sold out.
-I found out that the direct translation of my new favorite kind of cheese,
cuajada, is "curdled." Less appetizing now, though it makes a
lot of sense.
-Fish are going to be a big part of my diet here, which is pretty exciting.
I woke up from a nap the other day to find my host sister hacking the gills out
of some fish with their heads and eyes still on. I also watched a cock fight,
which was oddly enough more beautiful and less bloody than I expected. However, my ability to feel empathy for animals is
inversely correlated with the amount of sleep I've lost due to the chickens
outside my room squaking with tremendous zeal at all hours. At this point, I could probably personally wring their necks
without feeling too much remorse.
-I've watched an obscene number of Mexican soap operas, which feature
characters who probably phenotypically represent at best 10% of the Mexican
population and feature storylines that are generally involve a lot of cheating.
Thanks to this I can probably pull off an excellent angry crazy woman
impression, which could potentially come in handy for scaring my future students
into doing their work.
-I'm still bad at laundry. I washed stuff the other day and my host mom
complemented me on how fast I did it and I was feeling so good until it dried
and as usual, my black clothes were covered in white splotches. I guess it serves
me right for not thinking ahead about how my big city black wardrobe might not
be a smart choice for a hot, tropic region of the world where there's a lot of
anxiety about devil worship.
-Jane Jacobs sure was right...having eyes on the street makes on world of
difference for public safety. Kids eyes are particularly observant. I talked to
some cipotes (little kids) today who remembered that I had arrived in a truck 6 days earlier,
that my host family wanted to buy tortillas and that the kids were eating ice
out of cups. I want a memory that good! Then they told me that I looked like a
clown, and ran off to do impressive upside-down flips on a wire in front of my
house.
Well, there you have it readers. Week one in excruciating, mundane detail.
Emily....I love the details! Please don't stop. You're self-suspected capability to wring the necks of the chickens surfaced a memory of your great-grandfather coming home with squab in a brown paper sack, and then twisting their little heads off. Barbaric to me as a child, I had repressed the memory until reading your blog. Not that this has anything to do with anything at all....except, for the DETAILS! Keep 'em coming. Feel good!
ReplyDeleteLainey