What makes a place magical as opposed to just out of the way?
I was left with that thought as I got back from an immensely relaxing Holy
Week trip to Solentiname, an archipelago in the lower part of Lake Nicaragua,
with 2 fellow TEFLeras, Natalie and Isabel and Natalie's boyfriend, Rob.
Solentiname is one of my favorite places in Rio San Juan, and certainly in
Nicaragua. It's just so unexpected: a bunch of islands (36 to be exact) that
rise out of blue lake and horizon, so seemingly random that they were explained
in indigenous mythology as the body of a fleeing lover in a Romeo and
Juliet-esque suicide pact. There's a certain weirdness to it, all of a sudden,
a few houses, fields, and wooden docks rise out of the trees until it goes back
to the realm of the trees and birds. People are scarcely visible, except occasionally
at the docks or in fishing boats in the channels between the islands.
Despite being fairly isolated and sparsely populated (population 1000
across 3 or so islands), they're linked to so much history: of the war against
Somoza, of Liberation Theology, thanks to poet/priest Ernesto Cardenal, to art
and culture, albeit in a very artificial way, as pointed out by a fellow PCV
who had also visited.
Even though the dry season had robbed the islands of the green crowns that
they enjoyed the last time I visited in rainy June, they were bursting more
than ever with birds: small colorful song birds, parakeets, oropendolas, which
make crazy noises and build distinctive long hanging nests. We hung out a lot
on Mancarron, the largest island, where we were staying, visiting artists and
taking walks around to various places, like the museum which improbably is home
to a flock(?) of peacocks, and wandering through people's fields, past some
beautiful views out to other islands, until we chanced across the most random
and isolated baseball field I've ever seen in my life. Talk about soft power.
We also took the boat over to nearby San Fernando one day and wandered
around, watching gigantic flocks of migrating ducks from the porch of the
museum and going for an impromptu dip in a swimming hole off a very random and
poorly marked trail. All very chill.
And magical as it were. I was thinking about it though: what is it that
makes travelers use the word "magical" in response to places in the
developing world, and so reticent to use it in our own context? Is there
something about nature in developed places and spaces that makes it less
exciting to us? Can magical only be used to exoticize? Or are we just so jaded
that we have to be taken out of our element to recognize the magicalness in
places?
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