Sept 14: Really Exploring Cuzco

Word of the Day:
mami(cita)- form of address
polo- tee shirt, without a collar (go figure on that one...)
cojín- pillow case
chicha morada- until Chilean chicha which is alcholic and made from apples, this is made from purple corn, tastes cinnamony and is not alcoholic. Although I did see a translation somewhere as "corn beer," which seemed sort of misleading.

After a night back in Cuzco and a quick out for Machu Pichus (grape brandy known as pisco, orange juice and creme de menthe) by the Plaza de Armas, I hit the town early to walk around on our last day there and also get a bit of much needed time away from the pack. Despite being a tourist mecca, Cuzco definitely has its own unique vibe that is somewhat separate from the crowds. I decided that I would try and check some of that out on my last day there.

I had a very reflective walk which showed me how small indeed the touristy areas were. There was such a contrast between the institutional splendor of the old churches and archways and the informal bustle of the streets. Uniformed schoolchildren traveled in groups. People gathered at informal stands to eat and drink, off ceramic plates that the vendors then washed. People with scales offered to let you weigh yourself for a small fee. Stop signs were lacking. Women carried and nursed babies in colorful shawls. A band played outside the church, with a traditionally embroidered banner hoisted high, no doubt for someone's feast day.

I wandered into a market, which was pretty much the coolest thing ever. I have been known to cry at the beauty of farmers markets, and this one was pretty close to being a tear jerker. Everything was organized by section, with entire sections devoted to lamb, chicken, beef, artisanal goods, cheese, bread (in giant wheels!), grains, gorgeous vegetables and another section of informal restaurants with small counters. The vendors were mainly older female indigenous women, grizzled and tough. I realized how present traditional styles of dress still are, especially among the middle aged and above. So many people were wearing the bowler hat and skirt combo, with their long straight hair in two braids. I had previously thought this style had been preserved because tourists find it interesting, but I'm pretty sure that's not accurate.

I thought a lot on my walk about what it means to be a tourist and to "want to get to know the local culture." So many times we want to fool ourselves into thinking that taking a walk to see the sights, buying some indigenous weavings and going to a culture show will give us a taste of what life is like. But really, is it possible to know anything of the reality of a place? especially one that struggles with poverty without knowning what it is like to struggle to put food on the table, to live with physical insecurity, lacking clean drinking water, health care, waste disposal and education. Similarly, it's far to easy to take in the surroundings and assume that just because people live in less than ideal conditions that they lack agency or unique skills.

We spent much of the rest of morning in the artesanal markets which were filled with far too many beautiful things than I had money for. It was also customary to bargain a bit, which I found uncomfortable, mainly because I'm really bad at it, but also because it seemed absurb to tell someone that I think their handmade textile handbag is worth less than $10 US. Plus, Peruvians have the habit of sounding really friendly, because they call everyone "amiga" (friend) which makes you feel extra bad. However, I did successfully bargain down a few items a little bit, once I got into the swing of it more.

Then, my friend Regina and I wandered around another non-touristy area of the city, just taking in the sights, having some snacks and wandering. We talked a lot about the way that societies are organized by their own rules, which might not be codified by something like traffic lights but doesn't mean they don't have their own workable logic.

Wonderful way to end the Cuzco part of the trip. Then, we got back on the bus for more fun. The movies were better this time, including the spanish version of "The Hangover" which uses laughable amounts of Mexican slang and "The Proposal" but there was not heat or AC on the bus, both of which were sorely needed at various points. Also, the lack of AC made the Australian men sitting across from me whine like little babies which was incredibly annoying. Australia is a hot place, right? They should have been able to deal with it better.