Word of the Day:
clay- la greda
chancho- pig (Chile)
Today, the whole Tufts group had a trip to Pomaire, an artisanal tourist town just outside Santiago famed for its clay. Pomaire is a beautiful place, in its own humble way. It doesn't have any of the splendor of the Andes or the color of Valpo but it feels quaint and comfortable. Although it is specifically designed for tourism, we only saw other Chileans there, which was definitely different than other touristy places we've visited. We were lucky enough to spend the day with a family who live in the town and own some sort of artisanal center. We ate breakfast in their beautiful house, which was filled with portraits, paintings and beautiful objects that seemed straight out of a Better Homes and Gardens style magazine. After that, their daughter brought us across the town to show us the clay process. Clay, straight out of the ground, comes into Pomaire from nearby hillsides, where it is soaked, milled and packed into blocs called "quesitos." (little cheeses) Then, the clay in worked on potter's wheels to make simple yet beautiful objects in beautiful terra cottas that vary in color according to the soil they are made from. We got to watch potters at their craft which was amazing, because it only took them literally 30 seconds to make bowls or plates or vases. We also got a chance to try which was quite fun and gave us an idea of the skill required. Throughout, our guide emphasized the low prices paid for goods despite the physical labor required as well as the skill. She also mentioned that free trade was partly responsible for the dip in prices. While Pomaire's goods are famed throughout Chile, I suppose that they probably face competition from cheaper made Asian goods. On the whole, I'm surprised there isn't any sort of fair trade movement going on in Pomaire. While it probably wouldn't have much of a success within Chile, it would probably have some international traction, although I don't know how much of an international market their is. Ultimately, I suppose a lot of what determines the prices is a lack of respect for manual labor, despite how much skill it may entail.
We learned from an artisan how to make traditional chanchitos, good luck clay pigs for which Pomaire is famous. After a HUGE traditional lunch of cazuela, and several sides including penca, a sweet celery like vegetable, we went down to the row of stores to check out their wares and shop around.
All in all, it was a lovely, relaxed and graciously hosted day.
That evening, I went to the beachside town of Algorrobo with fellow Tufts in Chile-er Molly, her host sister and their friends. While Algorrobo is a huge resort in the summer, I really liked it this time of year since it was relatively empty. The water was beautiful- multiple layers of color surrounded by sweeping views of the coastline. The Chileans we hung out with were great- partying in Chile is very relaxed and fun and always includes fun music.
As absolutely fabulous as all this is, it's weird for me to be having so many great experiences all at once, especially with people who represent some of the wealthiest members of Chilean society.
I feel as if I've won some sort of lottery that's enabled me to jump up an entire income bracket in a matter of months: it's AWESOME, I'm extremely grateful for it, but its minorly disconcerting.
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