Word of the Day:
Sea lion- lobos del mar (Sea wolves- not sure why they are a different animal in the spanish name, although come to think of it, they don't really look like lions either)
Our entire Tufts group went to Valparaiso again, which despite not being a new experience was simply delightful since it is pretty much my favorite place on earth. Mild exaggeration, but at any rate, I could stay there for days and just wander and photograph and gaze at all the color and ocean and art. Today's adventure was slightly less spontaneous than our last trip since we were with a tour guide, but he was quite knowledgeable about history and being a local, filled us in on a lot of interesting information:
-Slang in Valparaiso uses a lot of expressions with animals, such as calling clothspins "perros" (dogs), a child you are proud of "hijo de tigre" (son of a tiger), etc.
-The legend of Emile DuBois, a frenchman convicted of assasinations whose gravesite has become a local landmark and place to go for those who are wrongly accused of crimes. http://www.ciudaddevalparaiso.cl/inicio/patrimonio_historia_sxxi_nueva.php?id_hito=25 (Sorry, couldn't find a link in English)
-The effects that containerization, the Panama Canal and the end of the nitrate boom had on the city
-The effects that being declared "Patrinomy of Humanity" has had on the city and tourism, which hardly existed to the same level 15 years ago.
-The city's attempts to control their stray dog problem
As our guide pointed out, Valparaiso is a very "honest" city: it's impossible to see the good, beautiful parts of the city without seeing the average or poor areas as well. I think that's part of what I like about it so much although it also creates something of an awkward dynamic as you navigate the streets: most of the areas of interest are people's houses or are near them and unlike touristy areas of other cities, it isn't devoid of local residents. Ironically, however, neighborhoods that have been designated as special cultural areas are starting to face problems with vacancy because housing prices are so high and the rich would rather live in nearby cities such as Viña del Mar that have beaches, car access and are safer.
We went for a boat ride and saw the city from the water, as well as some absolutely adorable sea lions! We visited Gran Britania street, an area with good views of the ocean and Victorian architecture. Then, we had a nice seafood lunch in the port area, complete with an old guitarrist who sang "Valparaiso de mi Amor," a famous song about the city for us. Then we took "El Peral," an ascensor (elevator), to Cerro Alegre and Cerro Concepción, two of the most famous hills in Valparaiso. Lastly, we saw parts of "Museo Cielo Abierto" where we were hilariously accosted by two rambunctious youngsters.
All in all, an absolutely lovely day.
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